Fitting rod holders

[Stray]

I bought a pair of rod holders off fleabay, they're like the scottys, but have a G clamp fitted. You can fix them to the transom or the seat. Also got a couple of rod tubes to keep the rods out of the way when not in use.

[James]

I bought a pair of rod holders off fleabay, they're like the scottys, but have a G clamp fitted. You can fix them to the transom or the seat. Also got a couple of rod tubes to keep the rods out of the way when not in use.

That's also a good idea.
I will take a look

[Phil]

Then I bolted the base parts for two scotty rod holders to each end.

Hi Sailrepair,

I'm looking to copy your ingenious rod rest design for when my FRIB 360 is delivered in a couple of weeks. Possibly without the rubber innertube. I'm hoping that if I file down the cut ends, they won't scratch anything as getting the rubber on the aluminium looks fiddly (although very neat!) .

I was originally looking at rod rests with clamps, but I noticed these would not fit on the corners of the FRIB transom and clear of the outboard as the splash guards would get in the way. I want to use the rod rests to hold the rods securely when motoring along. I believe the Scotty rod rests will tilt up almost vertically and lock the rods in so they can double up in place of using rod tubes.

I have a couple of newb questions before I order the parts that I wanted to run past you if I may...

Most importantly, can you tell me how you bolt the rod rests on to the bar? The size of the tube looks too small to get a spanner or small pair of pliers in to hold the bolts in place. Are using something like a rivet gun?

Secondly, it looks like the aluminium comes in 2mm or 3mm thickness. Would you recommend the thicker option to take the weight of the outboard? I'm presuming a meter long would do it. If you happen to have a 360 and could tell me the width you cut the aluminium to (can't find the transom width online) I would be very grateful. Getting twitchy waiting for my boat to arrive and would like to sort out the accessories I need for when it does .

Many thanks in advance,

Phil

[sailrepair]

Hi Phil

Sorry for the slow reply.

I drilled holes in just one side of the bar then bolted the holders on. It is a bit fiddly getting the nut on inside the tube but not too hard.

The bar takes part of the weight of the engine but once the engine clamps are done up tight it is a static weight ie you don't have the full weight of the engine bouncing up and down on the bar. I think mine was about 2mm. I bought a 1m length and cut it down to about 80cm for my 330.

yes I raise the rod holders for going out to the fishing area then lower them into fishing position. They have a locking collar so you can have the rod near vertical.

I have now changed my holders to the heavy duty scotty striker ones because of the size of the reels I use sometimes (penn International) have big rod clamps that don't fit into the normal holders that well.

[Phil]

Many thanks for all the detail, technique and measurements Sailrepair. That's really helpful.

My future father in law suggested self-tapering screws, but I imagine bolts will be more secure if, as you say, I can fiddle around to get the nuts on inside the tube. Good to know this is possible, if a bit fiddly!

I think I can make do with the standard Scotty rod holders as I'll be using the small multiplier reels I take out on my fishing kayak. If you still had, but weren't using your original Scottys, I'd be interested in buying them [emoji3].

I'll order in the parts and let you know how I get on once I've made the rest and I have the boat to fit it on.

Cheers,

Phil


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[sailrepair]

When you drill the holes they look fine from above but when you look into the tube they can be very close to the internal corners. In a way this can help stop the nut from turning but could be a problem on thicker walled tube. You could use self tapping screws or rivits.

because I fish for common skate often with 2lb + lead weights I have to have the reels with the drag higher than in other situations and I have had other rod holders snapped off the gunnels of my old boat (luckily the rod was on a safety tether) I am a bit paranoid about my rod holder strength.

My normal scotty holders are used nearly every day on my fishing sup -

I bought my last ones when on holiday in Florida, they are about half price over there. There are other much cheaper makes which are adequate for most things. I like quality reels so I have a safety tether on them when they are in the rest. Not so important if there are two of you on board but when its just me and up to 3 rods out it is not unusual to be hit be to 100 + lb fish on a rod while I am busy with another rod.

[Gybemaster]

Can you tell me where you got your stake out pole from please? I've been after one for my kayak but can only see them available in the US?


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[Phil]

That fishing sup setup looks great Sailrepair. Didn't know that was a thing. I've been paddle boarding once and found it hard enough to stand up and paddle, so imagine it's quite a challenge to fight a fish on one!

Good to know about the rod holders. I see you can pick up two other brand holders for the same price as one Scotty, so will bear that in mind when ordering. I use light gear and usually only 2-3oz weights, so a cheaper model with self tapping screws may suffice for my needs.

Sounds like I need to go for the 2mm thick tube, then. I'll probably give it a go with bolts and revert to screws if I lose my patience with the nuts [emoji38]!


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[sailrepair]

Can you tell me where you got your stake out pole from please? I've been after one for my kayak but can only see them available in the US?


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There are a few videos on Utube with guys in the US saying how to make them. But I used some Fiberglass extruded rod which I bought from these people - http://rbjplastics.com/standard-profile ... ional.html Mine is about 12mm od and quite thick walled. I have used it for about 2 years now for pike fishing and in a strong wind it bends quite a bit but has never broken. I had the spike tip off a course fishing bank stick that I glued on the end and I stuck a golf club rubber handle on the other end. I used to drift through the pikey bays but after a pass or two I would have spooked all the fish. The stake out pole is a lot more stealthy. And I generally catch more than all the specialst boats.

Phil -
yes just last week a guy sunning himself on this moored boat commented on what a good fight the pike I caught gave as I was towed past his boat and that was just a 8 pounder. I have had pike to 20 lb on it but sharks to 70 lb and sting ray to about 100lb. The board in the photo is a hard board, I also have a inflateable version for traveling. next weekend I am off with my inflateble boards to fish the fjords in Norway, can't wait.

I have a website so you can see what I do - http://www.supfishing.co.uk/news.html

[Phil]

[/quote]
Phil -
yes just last week a guy sunning himself on this moored boat commented on what a good fight the pike I caught gave as I was towed past his boat and that was just a 8 pounder. I have had pike to 20 lb on it but sharks to 70 lb and sting ray to about 100lb. The board in the photo is a hard board, I also have a inflateable version for traveling. next weekend I am off with my inflateble boards to fish the fjords in Norway, can't wait.

I have a website so you can see what I do - http://www.supfishing.co.uk/news.html[/quote]

Incredible stuff! I enjoyed looking through the website. Great pics [emoji106].

This gives me food for thought for another form of fishing to try my hand at after getting to grips with FRIB fishing. I like the idea of an inflatable board not taking up too much space either. Enjoy those Fjords!

I've also been thinking about having a go at kitesurfing for when it's been too windy to take my kayak out on the sea, but that's a little less rod-friendly [emoji23].


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