Fiberglass Chips in Deck

[9-R]

Put this here in the Darkside Section since I thought it was more applicable.

Originally thought there was mold & mildew on the deck at the helm but was sickened to find out that they are chips in the fiberglass/gel-coat instead. This is the only location so I'm guessing its because I wear my flip flops while piloting? Trying to figure out a repair and cover for the area. Do I need a fiberglass shop or can I fill in the divots with a white epoxy?

The black specs are the deeper ones. My eyes can't see very close so I can't tell if it's mold in the chip or it's down to the fiberglass.

Any good suggestions on a cheaper mat for the area? Can hard rubber soles do this to gel coat? Want to prevent this from happening in the future to other areas.

[chris moody]

I had my decks redone with flowcoat.

[Martin]

Eeek, That looks a little grim..
I had a little look online and found this, http://epoxy-it.com/ss/repair-non-skid- ... l-results/
Not sure if it's what you're after but it looks like it might be the right thing.

I think i'd be tempted to get right in there and see if it's down to the fibres before starting anything major, possibly a syringe and gelcoat repair ?

[9-R]

Thanks Chris, I appreciate it. I didn't know about that product.

Thanks Martin! I was thinking of a smaller quantity of epoxy just to fill in the holes but I wasn't aware of a non-skid mold like that. I'm very interested and will look to see if I can pull it off! Awesome.

[ChrisParish]

It looks like the gel coat is almost non-existent in the pictures. I would guess that it was caused by air pockets in the glass where the epoxy hadn’t penetrated fully which then became exposed when the thin gel coat was worn away, or possibly even if the boat was left exposed to the sun.

I would take a dremel with a very fine tool, or maybe even a hand file and grind each individual pocket like a dentist opening a tooth prior to filling. Then fill it with the filling of your choice.

[Mitch]

Probably the easiest & cheapest way is to wash it down with bleach just in case there is Mold in there, wash it well with water, let it dry & gel coat it with 2 thick coats, but the stuff Martin has found seems ideal.

[9-R]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it.

Found out from a knowledgeable Whaler guy that sometimes there are bubbles left during their mold process. After some use and exposure to the sun, the thin surface of the bubble flakes off and leaves divets like I'm experiencing. I've reached out to Whaler since he said that I'm within warranty and it is transferable to the next owner. Will see what happens.

Am at least happy to find out that I'm not the cause of it. Had me worried that I used a wrong chemical to clean or had done something myself since this is where I typically stand at the helm. He said it was only cosmetic and not an issue.

[9-R]

Update: Since they said it was cosmetic only, I decided to fill it in with a white marine epoxy. Our deck typically looks dingy anyways so it actually blended in alright.

After a hard cleaning, I filled in the holes and smeared the epoxy on flat and thin over the tread. I then took a thin stiff piece of cardboard and with the edge, traced the grooves in the deck tread pattern. Actually turned out alright. Problem was that the epoxy wasn't hardening quick enough and started to flatten and smooth itself back out. Oh well. Still better than it was and you actually have to inspect it closely to know that anything was done. I just feel better having the chunks filled.

[knaus470]

Now you've started the repair I'd suggest finishing it with Flo-Coat

Gelcoat is what is added during production (it is put onto the hull mold first) before the fibreglass itself is added

After production the only realistic way of adding gelcoat is to use flowcoat/flocoat. This is essentially gelcoat with an added wax that floats to the top after application, allowing the gelcoat to cure correctly

Adding epoxy as you have done is fine, but it needs to be sealed to protect it from UV

Many products are available. It may be worth choosing one that allows the inclusion of anti-slip properties (carborundum grit, crushed walnut shells or coarse aggregate) to name but three

If choosing 'just paint' it is worthwhile mixing the paint with glassflake - this substantially increases its wear resistance (glassflake is used on the waterline of ice breakers for the same reason) as well as on ship rudders to reduce cavitation damage from the propeller

If choosing the 'paint only' route, it needn't be expensive. I can strongly recommend Teamac 2K (twin pack) poly, but have also used RustOleum Combi-Colour (alkyd latex) as well as International Danboline (bilge paint)

Whatever you choose, good luck

[Limecc]

Why not get some self-adhesive fake teak? Done properly will be a huge improvement.