There were a few things I needed to do to my Frib 330 before I start to use her so here we go.
Firstly, I wanted to use my wheels from my Excel as they were 360mm dia and I find them to be much easier to get over softer ground. The problem is that the transom on the Frib has a lip which prevents the wheels locking in the upright position and so needed spacers making in order to be able to lock them up when on the water. I could of course bought 250mm wheels but not too keen on going that small.
The size difference is quite considerable when you put them together. I must admit however if I could afford a set of Beachmaster wheels, I could be tempted. I made a couple of plastic spacer plates to give me enough clearance.
A quick check with the wheels on just to make sure
I also wanted to fit spacers on the outside transom engine plate as my Parsun seems to touch the lip of the transom and again I made a few ready.
It may well be the Parsun which has a smaller radius where it sits on the transom but nevertheless 9mm of plastic was used to create a better fit.
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While I was playing I also stuck on a piece of rubber to protect the GRP top lip as I can be a tad clumsy putting the motor on so prevention is better than cure.
I still have the cuddy to fit but I am not so keen to use the supplied adhesive as it has to be mixed with acetone at 20% and that worries me a little. I would be interested to hear what you guys think on that one. Here are the fittings that need gluing
Now in the past when I have had a puncture, which has always been in warm weather, I stuck the patch with no air in the tube, only pumping the tubes back up after the glue has cured. The instructions here are to fit these connectors with fully blown up tubes and leave to set for at least 12 hours. Well I am tempted to buy some of the Poly Marine adhesive and fit them with no air in the tubes in order to allow the connectors to stick properly as I cant see they will shape around the tubes when blown up. Is it me guys, or do you agree, I would be interested to hear your comments. I also think the air temperature at this time of the year will need the tubes to be flat in order to get a good grip.
On a different subject. As I get older, I am finding it tricky to put the 15hp in the car on my own and whilst it is a 2 stroke weighing 37kg, it still bloody heavy for me. Now I have looked at the trolley with wheels fitted to the handles so you can slide the engine in quite easily but at £150 and taking quite a bit of space, I thought of another way for this old tart not to hurt my back again.
I had some industrial castors in the garage and fitted them to a piece of plywood
Then glued some thick sponge to give support to the engine
By standing the outboard up against the car tailgate, using a piece of rubber backed door mat to protect the bumper, I am able to basically lift the prop end of the engine just a little, which while the engine is leaning on the car allows it to lay back into the car and on the little skate.
Difficult to explain in words so I hope it makes sense.
The engine is now VERY easy to move around in the car and when in position, simply lock the wheels of the skate and away we go. Reverse the process when taking the engine out. It really does make life much easier.
This is something you will all turn around and say, yes we do a similar thing and if so, I'm sorry to be a boring just seemed to be a back saver for me.
Phil
without enough 'crank' on the arm to stop any wheel fowling of the anti-splash webbing between the transom and tube and fowling of the outboard need to choose their launching wheels VERY carefully 
